Not All Sewing Machine Threads Are the Same! How to Choose the Right One

Many people think, “Aren’t all sewing threads basically the same?”
But choosing the right thread can make a big difference in the finished result!

At our store, we often hear questions like:
“Which thread should I use for this fabric?”
“What’s the difference between No. 60 and No. 90 thread?”
“Is there a sewing thread for knit fabrics?”

Choosing the right sewing thread for your fabric’s thickness, stretch, and intended use can make sewing easier and improve the finished look of your project. ✨
In this article, we’ll explain the basics of sewing thread for home sewing machines, using the questions we hear most often in our store.

What’s the Difference Between Sewing Machine Thread and Hand Sewing Thread?

Before we introduce sewing machine thread, here’s a helpful tip! 👀
Have you ever tried using sewing machine thread for hand sewing and found it difficult to use? 🤔
The reason is the twist of the thread.
In general, sewing machine thread has a Z-twist, which helps keep the thread stable when sewing at high speed. Hand sewing thread has an S-twist, which helps prevent the thread from twisting as you sew by hand.

This difference in twist affects how the thread handles, so we hope you’ll remember it as a useful sewing tip!

Now, let’s get into the basics of choosing sewing machine thread.

Not All Sewing Machine Threads Are the Same! Let’s Start with the Basics📝

The following three points will help you choose the right sewing machine thread!
① Thread weight
② The right type of thread for your fabric
③ A thread colour that matches your fabric

Let’s look at each one!

How Do You Choose the Right Thread Weight?

Thread Weight	Recommended Needle Size	Suitable Fabrics	Recommended Uses
No.90	7-9	Lawn, organza, lightweight lining, lightweight cotton	Lightweight blouses, small projects, delicate sewing
No.60	9-11	Sheeting, broadcloth, oxford, medium-weight cotton	School bags and accessories, pouches, drawstring bags, clothing, small projects
No.50	11-14	Medium-heavy cotton-linen blends, canvas, firm medium-weight fabrics	Bags, small projects, and slightly heavier items
No.30	14-16	Canvas, denim, heavy canvas, faux leather	Heavy-duty sewing, bags, and decorative topstitching
No.20	Around Size 16	Denim, heavyweight fabrics, sturdy bag materials	Visible topstitching and jeans-style stitching

Choose the Right Type of Thread for Your Fabric

Once you’ve chosen the right thread weight, the next step is choosing the right type of thread.
Even threads with the same weight, such as No. 60, are made for different types of fabric, including regular woven fabrics and knit fabrics.
Using the right thread for your fabric helps prevent puckering and thread breakage, giving your project a cleaner, more professional finish.
Let’s take a closer look at the different types of sewing machine thread.

○Schappe Spun

Not Sure Which Thread to Choose? Start with Schappe Supin
Schappe Spun is a classic polyester sewing machine thread that is widely used for home sewing.
The standard No. 60 is suitable for medium-weight fabrics, and there are also finer and thicker options for lightweight and heavyweight fabrics, making it easy to choose the right one for your project.

It’s suitable for a wide range of projects, including school bags and accessories, pouches, drawstring bags, clothing, and bags. It’s also an excellent first sewing thread for beginners. 👍

Thread Weight	Suitable Fabrics	Recommended Uses
No.90	Lightweight fabrics such as lawn, satin, georgette, and organz	Lightweight blouses, dresses, small projects, and linings
No.60	Medium-weight fabrics such as broadcloth, sheeting, and twill	Clothing, pouches, drawstring bags, bags, and small projects
No.30	Heavyweight fabrics such as denim, canvas, and leather	Heavy-duty bags, denim projects, canvas accessories, and leather-look projects

○Jeans Stitch

For Denim and Heavy Fabrics: Jeans Stitch

Jeans Stitch is ideal for denim, heavy canvas, and bag-making fabrics.

This thicker thread is perfect when you want your stitches to stand out or add a decorative accent to your project.

It’s a great choice for jeans-style topstitching or for highlighting areas such as bag openings and handles.

For the best results, use a larger sewing machine needle and sew at a slower speed rather than forcing the machine.

Recommended needle size: No. 14–16

○King Leather

For Faux Leather and Leather-Look Fabrics: King Leather

King Leather is a great choice for sewing faux leather, leather-look fabrics, and other thick materials used for bags.
It’s ideal for projects such as pouches, bags, smartphone cases, and items made with faux leather parts when you want a sturdy, durable finish.
For thicker materials, using a leather needle or a larger sewing machine needle will make sewing easier.

Recommended needle size: No. 14–16

○Fine

For Lightweight and Medium-Weight Fabrics, Including Silk: Fine

Fine is a sewing machine thread that works well with lightweight cotton, chiffon, lawn, and other delicate fabrics.
Because the thread is fine and soft, it is gentle on the fabric and produces neat, delicate stitches. ✨

It’s a great choice for blouses, dresses, and lightweight accessories.

○TIRE

For a Smooth Finish with the Natural Sheen of Silk: TIRE

Made from 100% silk, TIRE offers a beautiful natural sheen, a smooth texture, and excellent elasticity.
This premium sewing thread is designed for easy sewing and an elegant finish.
It gives clothing and accessories a refined, high-quality look. ✨

Its fine, soft texture makes it suitable for a wide range of fabrics, from lightweight to medium-weight materials. It is especially recommended for garments and decorative stitching where you want the stitches to look their best.

It pairs beautifully with luxurious fabrics and materials with a graceful drape, enhancing the overall look of your project.

Recommended needle size:
No. 30 thread: Needle size No. 14–16
No. 50 thread: Needle size No. 11–14

Thread Type	Recommended Fabrics	Features	Example Uses	Available Weights
Schappe Spun	Lightweight to medium-weight to heavyweight fabrics	A classic home sewing thread that works well for a wide range of projects	Bags, accessories, clothing	No.90, No.60, No.30
Regilon	Knit fabrics	Stretchy and helps prevent seams from becoming tight	T-shirts, jersey fabrics	No.50
Fine	Lightweight cotton, lawn, chiffon	Fine and soft, creating delicate, neat stitches	Lightweight blouses, dresses, small projects	No.50
TIRE	Lightweight to medium-weight fabrics	100% silk with a beautiful sheen and smooth texture	Elegant clothing, accessories, decorative stitching	No.50, No.30
Jeans Stitch	Heavy denim, canvas	Thick thread designed to make stitches stand out	Bags, decorative topstitching	No.20
King Leather	Faux leather, leather-look fabrics	Durable and suitable for thick materials	Bags, accessories, leather-look projects	No.30

3.How to Choose the Right Thread Colour

When choosing a thread colour, instead of searching for an exact match to your fabric, we recommend placing the thread on the fabric and checking how well it blends in.
This is especially helpful for patterned fabrics and fabrics with subtle colours, as it can be difficult to judge the right colour from a screen alone.
Having a physical thread colour chart makes it easier to compare the thread directly with your fabric and imagine the finished look.
We have summarised some tips for choosing thread colours in the image and table below! We hope you find them helpful. 👀✨

Tips for Choosing Thread Colours	Explanation
Choose a thread colour close to the fabric colour	Place the fabric under the thread colour chart and compare each thread colour to find the closest match.
Choose a slightly darker thread for dark fabrics	A slightly darker thread blends naturally with dark-coloured fabrics.
Choose a standout colour from a multicoloured fabric	Choosing one colour from the base colour or pattern helps the stitches blend in without standing out too much.
Choose a slightly lighter thread for light-coloured fabrics	Be careful, as a thread that is too bright can make the stitches stand out on light fabrics.
Consider the colours in patterned fabrics	For patterned fabrics, look not only at the base colour but also at the colours of the patterns when choosing a thread.

Check This Chart When You’re Not Sure Which Thread to Choose!

So far, we have introduced how to choose the right sewing machine thread weight, type, and colour.
However, when choosing thread in real situations, you may still wonder, “Which thread weight is best for this fabric?” or “I’m not sure where the line is between medium-weight and heavyweight fabrics.”

In those cases, start by using the fabric thickness and the type of project you want to make as a guide!
The chart below will help you choose the right sewing machine thread for your project.

In Closing

When the combination of thread, needle, and fabric is right, your stitches will come out more neatly, and sewing with a machine will become even more enjoyable!
We hope this guide helps you choose the right thread for your projects.

Once you become more comfortable with sewing and think, “I want to use more types of thread” or “I want to stock up on larger spools of colours I use often,” industrial sewing machine thread is also a great option.
We also have an article about the types of industrial sewing machine thread and how to choose them.
Although they are designed for use with industrial sewing machines, we also have a comparison article about needles and presser feet for professional sewing machines.

Please take a look at these articles as well!

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